Norway // Oslo and the Oslofjord //

Frognerseteren and Ullevålseter lodges

Five stops on from Holmenkollen, a thirty-minute ride north of the city centre, Frognerseteren is the terminus of T-bane #1. From the station, it’s just a couple of hundred metres to Frognerseteren’s large and good-looking wooden lodge , where the views from the terrace out over Oslo and the Oslofjord are much more enjoyable than the food. From the T-bane terminus, there’s also a choice of signposted trails across the surrounding countryside. Forest footpaths link Frognerseteren with Sognsvannet to the east, an arduous and not especially rewarding trek over the hills of about 5km. Locals mostly shun this route in summer, but it’s really popular in winter with parents teaching their children to cross-country ski. A better alternative, at least in summer, is the longer but more interesting hike to Sognsvannet via Ullevålseter, where the lodge has a very good café serving excellent home-made apple cake. The whole route is about 9km long, and takes about three hours to complete.