Oozing over the Albanian border, beautiful Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans, and also one of its most untouched. However, since it lies on the train line, it’s easily accessible and can make a good stopoff on your way to or from the coast. The main jump-off point is Virpazar, a cute little fishing village at the northern end of the lake, a kilometre back down the line to Podgorica from the station. From here it’s a pleasant walk along the lake’s western shore, and though there’s nowhere to rent bikes, if you’ve brought one along you’ll be in heaven – an hour’s ride will bring into sight a clutch of offshore monasteries, though to get any nearer you’ll have to search for a boat. Accommodation is available in Virpazar at the Pelikan (w http://www.pelikan-zec.com), which also has an excellent restaurant.