CASTELFRANCO VENETO once stood on the western edge of Treviso’s territory, and battlemented brick walls the Trevisans threw round the town in 1199 to protect it against the Paduans still encircle most of the old centre (or castello). Of all the walled towns of the Veneto, few bear comparison with Castelfranco, and the place would merit a visit on the strength of this alone. But Castelfranco was also the birthplace of Giorgione and possesses a painting that single-handedly vindicates Vasari’s judgement that Giorgione’s place in Venetian art is equivalent to Leonardo da Vinci’s in that of Florence.