Heading west, the first town that can really be considered free of Naples’ sprawl is POZZUOLI, which sits on a stout promontory jutting out from the slender crescent of volcanic hills behind. Despite achieving some glamour as the home town of Sophia Loren, it’s an ordinary little place, nothing special but likeable enough, with ferry connections to the islands of Procida and Ischia. And although you wouldn’t want to stay here, it’s a good first stop before travelling on to the rest of the Campi Flegrei.

Pozzuoli has suffered more than most of the towns around here from the area’s volcanic activity and subsidence is still a major – and carefully monitored – problem. In town there are a number of well-preserved relics of the Romans’ liking for the place.