BORGARFJÖRÐUR EYSTRI, also known as Bakkagerði, is a slowly dwindling community of just 110 farmers and fishermen at the end of the mostly gravel Route 94, some 70km from Egilsstaðir. The journey here can be a little hair-raising; about 7km short of town, Route 94 winds along the side of dangerously loose cliffs, a hazard attributed to the malevolent local spirit Naddi, who – despite being pushed into the sea by a fourteenth-century farmer – remains active, judging by the state of the road. Keep an eye out for a protective cross by the roadside with the Latin inscription Effigiem Christi qui transis pronus honora (“You who hurry past, honour Christ’s image”). But once arrived, Borgarfjörður is a charming location, steeped in local lore, with a wide fjord to the front and a backdrop of steep, colourful mountainsides. The core of the village surrounds its old harbour; while a new harbour, 5km up the coast, is home to a large puffin colony.