The main gateway to northwest Macedonia, ÉDHESSA is a delightful place atop an escarpment. Its modest fame is attributed to the waters that flow through the town; descending from the mountains to the north, which eventually cascade down a dramatic ravine, luxuriant with vegetation, to the plain below. Most of the town’s architecture is humdrum, but the various stream-side parks and wide pedestrian pavements are a rare pleasure in Greece (Édhessa was a pioneer in pedestrianization) and it’s an increasingly important centre for regional tourism.

Édhessa aquarium

This unusual freshwater aquarium is the centrepiece of a so-called open-air water museum, built from converted watermills in the Varósi district just west of the waterfalls. The surrounding mills and Balkan-style houses, some decorously decaying, others tastefully renovated, reward aimless wanderings – though everything is well signposted.

The folklore museum

The only real sight as such is a delightful little folklore museum near Ayía Paraskeví church; it displays various household objects and other traditional items of the kind that would once have graced every home in the district.