Like Sylt, Föhr and Amrum are split between fine beach and the shallow Wattenmeer, a nutrient-rich soup of blues, browns and silvery light on the east coast. In other ways the southern islands couldn’t be more different. Tranquil and cheaper, these small family-friendly islands are sleepy and rural. The hubbub disappears and bedtime storytelling in the bandstand – a nod to former holidaymaker Hans Christian Andersen – replaces the DJs in Föhr’s largest village, Wyk. By 9pm the whole place is asleep. Charming and uncomplicated, the islands have the innocent vibe of childhood holidays past, their main activities walking, cycling and sand castles on the beach.