Explore Provence
Spreading across Rhône delta, defined by the Petit Rhône to the west, the Grand Rhône to the east, and the Mediterranean to the south, the drained, ditched and now protected land known as the Camargue is distinct from the rest of Provence. With land, lagoon and sea sharing the same horizontal plain, its horizons appear infinite, its boundaries unseen.
The whole of the Camargue is a Parc Naturel Régional, which sets out to balance tourism, agriculture, industry and hunting against the indigenous ecosystems. When the Romans arrived, the northern part of the Camargue was a forest; they felled the trees to build ships, then grew wheat. These days, especially since the northern marshes were drained and re-irrigated after World War II, the main crop is rice.
The Camargue is split into two separate sections by the large Étang du Vaccarès, a lagoon that’s out of bounds to visitors. Most people focus their attention on the western Camargue, home to the sizeable town of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, and also commercial attractions such as wildlife parks and activity operators. It is possible, however, to take a quick look at both the western and eastern halves of the Camargue within a single day.
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Bulls, birds and beavers: Camarguais wildlife
Bulls, birds and beavers: Camarguais wildlife
The Camargue is a treasure trove of bird and animal species, both wild and domestic. Its most famous denizens are its bulls and the white horses, both of which roam in semi-liberty. Born dark brown or black, the Camargue horse turns white in around its fourth year.
An estimated 2500 of the region’s gardians or herdsmen – ten percent of them women – remain active. A hardy bunch, they play a major role in preserving Camarguais traditions. Their traditional homes, or cabanes, are thatched, windowless one-storey structures, with bulls’ horns over the door to ward off evil spirits. Throughout the summer, the gardians are kept busy, with spectacles involving bulls and horses in every village arena; winter is a good deal harder.
Camargue wildlife ranges from wild boars, beavers and badgers, tree frogs, water snakes and pond turtles, to marsh and seabirds and birds of prey. The best season for birdwatching lasts from April to June. Of the region’s fifty thousand or so flamingos, ten thousand remain in winter (Oct–March), when the rest migrate to Africa.
