France // The Côte d’Azur //

Vieux Nice

Vieux Nice has been much gentrified in recent years, but the restaurants, boutiques and little art galleries still coexist with humbler shops, there’s washing strung between the tenements, and away from the showpiece squares a certain shabbiness lingers. Tourism now dominates Vieux Nice: throbbing with life day and night in August, much of it seems deserted in November. It is best explored on foot.