Long ago, the Jutes, the people of Jutland, were a separate tribe from the more warlike Danes who occupied the eastern islands. By the Viking era, however, the battling Danes had spread west, absorbing the Jutes, and real power gradually shifted towards Zealand, where it has largely stayed ever since. Nevertheless, Århus, Denmark’s second city halfway up the eastern coast, and Aalborg, capital of northern Jutland, are vibrant, cosmopolitan urban centres. Further inland, the landscape is dramatic – stark heather-clad moors, fjords and dense forests, while north of Aalborg the landscape becomes increasingly wind-battered and stark until it reaches Skagen, on the peninsula’s tip.
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