The greasy axle of modern Prague is Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí), a mass of shabby gift shops and strip clubs. It was here that protesters gathered to topple Communism in the Velvet Revolution. At the top end is a statue of St Wenceslas on his horse. Below is a small memorial to 21-year-old student Jan Palach, who burnt himself to death in protest against the Russian invasion of ’68, becoming a symbol of Czech resistance.
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