The forest wilderness of TILLIRIA lies south of the coast between Polis and Kato Pyrgos and northwest of the Troodos Massif. The region makes for an exhilarating drive – passengers will be able to enjoy the endless forest vistas, but the driver won’t be able to lift his eyes from the asphalt for a second, not only because of the bends but also because of rocks fallen from cliff faces above. Despite what it says on older maps, which show it crisscrossed only by 4WD tracks, there is now a well-surfaced road (the F740) that cuts right through the forest from the road around the Kokkina Enclave. Apart from Stavros tis Psokas there are no settlements (or petrol stations), and only the very occasional picnic site (though there’s a beautiful one deep in the forest at Livadi). During the summer you’re likely to come across a fair amount of traffic – especially coaches, jeeps on safari and forest warden’s vehicles – but outside the main holiday season you might not see another vehicle for hours.