A short bus ride up from Kato Pafos stands KTIMA PAFOS, the more sedate administrative centre of the town. Its most atmospheric part is the old Turkish Quarter, or Mouttalos. This teeming area of narrow lanes has been turned into a covered market by the addition of glass and timber roofs. In these labyrinthine streets you can buy anything from souvenirs to slippers to sunglasses, bookmarks to belts, key rings to tablecloths. A snack bar sits in the depths of the market and, running along the edge that overlooks the main road and fine views down towards the harbour, a series of cafés and restaurants.