A few kilometres northeast of Agia Napa are the fine beaches of Protaras, as well as rugged Cape Greko, perfect for exploring on foot or racing around in a dune buggy. Inland are the so-called “red villages” or Kokkinochorio, set among fields of red soil (hence the name) dotted with wind pumps and within spitting distance of the Turkish-occupied north. Pyla, in the Buffer Zone and the only combined Greek/Turkish Cypriot village remaining on the island, has one of the few points where you can cross into north Cyprus. Deryneia, on a north slope facing Famagusta and with views across the modern part of that city, flourished until 1974, and is now a derelict ghost town.
This easternmost part of south Cyprus is easily accessible – the national motorway links it to the rest of the island, while other excellent main roads (the E306, 307 and 327) make moving around within it a doddle. It also boasts a good bus service and even well-marked footpaths. Incidentally, the Agia Napa/Protaras area is technically part of Famagusta District, but since a large chunk of that is now occupied by the Turkish Army (and covered in Chapter 6), it has been included in this chapter.