The bulk of visitors to Cyprus rely on tour-company coaches to get around. Independent travellers have a choice of renting vehicles (cars/motorbikes/scooters/quad bikes), catching buses, or taking taxis. For the more intrepid, walking and cycling are also options. The transport system in the north is nowhere near as well-developed as that of the south, and your best bet here is to rent a car or book a tour.
Following reorganization in 2010, the south now has a good urban and intercity bus system. Buses are modern, usually on time, and although run by different companies in each district (Zinonas in Larnaka, OSEA in the Agia Napa/Protaras area – sometimes called “free Famagusta”, EMEL in Lemesos, OSYPA in Pafos, and OSEL in Nicosia) fares are standard and simple: single journey €1, daily ticket €2, weekly ticket €10, monthly ticket €30, daily intercity €10). Each company has its own contact number and website: Lefkosia (t77777755, wosel.com.cy), Lemesos (t77778121, wlemesosbuses.com), Larnaka (t80007744, wzinonasbuses.com), Pafos (t80005588, wpafosbuses.com), Famagusta (t23819090, wosea.com.cy). You can also access information about Intercity Buses and airport shuttles on t80007789, wintercity-buses.com. A very useful combined website at wcyprusbybus.com pulls all the information together. Rural buses, especially in the Troodos Mountains, are less frequent and less reliable.
Bus services in the north are unreliable, don’t seem to follow a timetable, will often wait until the bus is full before setting off, and are little used by visitors. Indeed, native Turkish Cypriots rarely use them either, so you’re likely to find yourself sitting next to Turkish mainland settlers or Turkish army personnel. If you decide to brave this rather chaotic system, note that fares fall into the €1–3 range.
By car and motorcycle
The best and most efficient way of getting around Cyprus is to rent a car or, if you’re not put off by their poor safety record, motorcycles, quad bikes, scooters or beach buggies. Car rental starts at around €34 per day in summer, €20 per day in winter – the longer the rental period, the lower the rate – but it’s worth prebooking and shopping around. And if you intend exploring the remoter parts of the island, it is well worth splashing out on a 4WD, especially as normal rental agreements often exclude driving on dirt roads. Petrol costs around €1.30 and diesel just over €1 per litre, and there are plenty of filling stations. Bear in mind, though, that many are closed in August, so it pays to keep your tank as full as you can.
Motorways (prefix “A”) and main roads (prefix “B”) are of good quality but side roads, especially in the mountains, might be unsurfaced. Visitors from the UK will feel particularly at home because driving is on the left, cars are right-hand drive, and there’s a whole host of familiar street furniture, from Belisha beacons to zebra crossings. Speed limits (strictly enforced) are as follows: motorways max 100km/h, min 65km/h. Unless otherwise indicated main roads have a limit of 80km/h; built-up areas 50km/h.
Parking is free in many villages, while town-centre car parks charge €1.70 to €3 for half a day. On-street parking in major towns is meter controlled, falling in the range €0.80–2 during office hours. Parking is free on Saturday afternoons, Sundays and public holidays.
Driving in the north is similar to driving in the south: cars keep to the left, signs are international, there are plenty of petrol stations, road signs are usually in kilometres, though sometimes in miles. Because development has been patchy, you might well come across bottlenecks where good new roads disgorge traffic onto narrow unimproved ones.
Contrary to popular belief, Cypriots are usually courteous drivers. However, some drive very fast, while others, especially in rural areas, drive insanely slowly, accustomed, seemingly, to the speed of a donkey. While the fatality rate on Cyprus’s roads is higher than the UK’s (particularly low) figure, it still compares well with, for example, Greece and the US.
- Alcohol limits are low – 50mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood (compared with 80mg per 100 ml in the UK) – and punishment for exceeding them severe. The only way to be sure of not falling foul of the law is not to drink at all if you’re driving.
- Children must use restraints appropriate to their height and weight. In taxis, they can use rear seat adult seatbelts if that’s all that’s available. Rear-facing baby seats must not be used in front seats protected by air bags, unless the air bags have been deactivated.
- Jaywalking in towns seems to be endemic, often because the pavement is obstructed by telegraph poles, restaurant tables and chairs, eccentrically parked vehicles and so on.
- You’ll often see several people crammed onto a single moped – treat them with caution.
- Donkeys (often heavily laden) and goats can be a hazard on country roads.
- Don’t cross double lines to overtake.
- Don’t acknowledge courtesy by holding out your hand palm outwards. This is, in Cyprus as in Greece, a very rude gesture.
- For roadside assistance call the Cyprus Automobile Association (t22313233, w caa.com.cy. In case of accidents, call 112.
Car rental in the South
Main towns and cities are well served by rental agencies, both local and international. Those in holiday areas like Pafos and Agia Napa offer a range of vehicles in addition to cars – scooters, motorcycles, quad bikes and buggies.
Drivers under 25 who have been driving for less than three years must inform the rental agency so that special under-age insurance can be provided.
If you rent a car in the south, most companies will allow you to cross to the north, but you’ll need to arrange your own insurance at the crossing point – there will be a booth where you can do this. Petsas Rent a Car will arrange this on your behalf.
Car rental in the North
Since none of the big international car rental companies cover north Cyprus, you’re limited to local firms. However, most will deliver and pick up from your hotel, or from Ercan Airport, and some now include that service for Larnaka. Note that to rent a car in north Cyprus you must be at least 25 years old.
The TRNC Rent a Car Association produces a booklet annually with advice on renting cars in the north, and the phone numbers of about forty rental companies. Otherwise, try: North Cyprus Car Hire Services (wcyprus-car.net) or Sun Rent a Car (wsunrentacar.com).
In the south taxis are numerous in larger towns and cities and can either be hailed from the street or picked up at ranks. All urban taxis should have meters and fares are controlled by the government. In rural areas taxis do not have meters, so it’s as well to agree a fare before setting off. The fare structure for urban taxis is complicated: it is divided into day (6.01am–8.30pm) and night tariffs, with an initial charge (day €3.42, night €4.36) and a fare per km (day €0.73, night €0.85). There are also charges for waiting (per hour), for luggage (per item) and during public holidays. In the north, taxis (marked by a “Taksi” sign on the roof) do not have meters, so you should agree a price before getting in. Taxis are not allowed to cruise, and operate from official ranks which are closed at night. In both the south and the north you can also use shared taxis, which carry between four and eight passengers, between main towns. In the south (where they are also called Transurban Taxis) these operate on a fixed half-hourly timetable from 6am to 6pm (Sundays 7am to 5pm); in the north (where they are known as dolmuses), they usually wait until they are full.
Cyprus’s mild climate is ideal for cyclists, though during midsummer the obvious precautions – helmet, sun cream, plenty of drinking water – should be taken. Most towns in the south have bike rental companies, and mountain and road bikes are readily available, with charges usually being around €50 for three days, €100 for a week. A new cycle track has recently been established in the Troodos Mountains, with nearly 60km of well-signposted surfaced and unsurfaced track. For information on cycling in Cyprus, contact the Cyprus Cycling Federation, 21, Amphipoleos Street, Nicosia t22449870, wcypruscycling.com. The renting of bikes in the north is less developed than in the south, but a number of hotels will be able to help arrange this.