Lying three hundred metres across the water from the mainland south of Šibenik, Krapanj has the minor distinction of being the smallest inhabited island in the Adriatic. It is reached by ferry shuttle from BRODARICA, an undistinguished village which stretches along the shore for some 3km. Ferries arrive at a sleepy harbour backed by an enjoyable warren of grey-brown houses. Diving for sponges used to be the main occupation on Krapanj, although there’s not much evidence of this now, save for a couple of shops on the harbour selling spongy souvenirs. Krapanj fills up with Croatian weekenders in July and August, when there’s a fair number of sunbathers sprawled out on either side of the quay – the rest of the time women clad in traditional black widows’ weeds outnumber other residents four to one.