Explore The Ardennes
Slung along the River Meuse beneath craggy green cliffs, DINANT, 30km from Namur, has a picture-postcard setting, its distinctive, onion-domed church of Notre-Dame lording it over the comings and goings of the barges and cruise boats. The Romans were the first to put the place on the map, occupying the town and naming it after Diana, the goddess of the hunt, but the town’s heyday came much later, in the fourteenth century, when it boomed from the profits of the metalworking industry, turning copper, brass and bronze into ornate jewellery known as dinanderie. Dinant’s prosperity turned rival cities, especially Namur, green with envy, and they watched with some satisfaction as local counts slugged it out for possession of the town. They may have been even happier when, in 1466, Charles the Bold decided to settle his Dinant account by simply razing the place to the ground. One result of all this medieval blood and thunder was the construction of an imposing citadel on the cliff immediately above the town, and, although Dinant was sacked on several subsequent occasions and badly damaged in both World Wars, the fortress has survived to become the town’s principal attraction.
Nowadays, Dinant makes a healthy living as a base for the tourist industry on the rivers Meuse and Lesse, its cruise boats, canoes and kayaks providing watery fun and games for thousands of visitors – though frankly the scenery is not nearly as wild as you’ll find deeper in the Ardennes, whilst the town itself is quickly exhausted.
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By boat from Dinant
By boat from Dinant
Despite its serpentine profile, the River Meuse south of Dinant is not especially scenic, though the town’s boat-tour operators still drum up lots of business for their river cruises. There are several different companies, but all boats depart from avenue Winston Churchill, one block from the main street, rue Grande; prices and itineraries are pretty standard whichever company you choose. Two good bets are the cruises to Anseremme, where you can hike off into the surrounding countryside, and Freÿr. There are also boats north along the Meuse to Namur on Sundays from mid-July to late August.
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Sax Appeal in Dinant
Sax Appeal in Dinant
Dinant’s most famous native is Adolphe Sax (1814–94), the inventor of the saxophone. Saxophiles will want to have a look at the musician’s old home, at rue Adolphe Sax 35, marked by a commemorative plaque and a neat stained-glass mural of a man blowing his horn (sadly it’s not open to the public), along with a statue of the king of cool reclining on a bench outside. For more sax appeal, take a left off Grand Rue onto rue en Rhée for the enjoyable Maison de la Pataphonie, at no. 51 (t082 21 39 39), which among other things supplies an interactive journey into the life and sounds of Sax but bear in mind it’s popular and you need to book in advance.







