While the modern city of Fajardo has all the charm of a giant shopping mall, the real Caribbean starts in earnest just offshore. La Cordillera is a chain of around ten uninhabited, reef-encrusted white sand cays, paradise for anyone interested in snorkelling, diving or lazing on the beach. Turtles nest here each year and the sprawling coral reefs are home to a variety of marine life. Many of the islands are protected within the Reserva Natural La Cordillera, managed by the DRNA.

To reach the islands you’ll need a boat: the easiest way to get one is to find or call Captain Domingo “Mingo” Nieves (t787/383-6509) at the Las Croabas pier. He’ll take you to Icacos or Palominitos for $100 (maximum 6 people) and pick you up anytime. For $30 per person (minimum 4 people) he’ll take you snorkelling off Palominitos for a couple of hours. If you’re lucky enough to be a guest at the El Conquistador Resort, you’ll get ferried over to Isla Palominos for free and failing that, numerous boats operating out of Villa Marina and Puerto del Rey visit the islands every day.

The islands

Cayo Icacos (163 acres) is the biggest island in the chain, coated in a thick layer of scrubby bush, seagrape and coconut palms, and fringed by incredibly seductive beaches of floury white sand and vivid, turquoise waters. Being relatively close to shore (though still 7km from Villa Marina), it’s a particular favourite of boat operators, which means the best beach areas (on the calmer, leeward side) can get crowded on weekends, but at other times it’s easy to find a secluded spot. The ocean side of the island is rough and rocky, while the reefs between Icacos and the rock known as “Cucaracha” have the best snorkelling.

From here, smaller islets stretch east towards Culebra: Cayo Ratones, Cayo Lobos and, further out, Cayo Diablo (30–40min by boat), are popular dive and snorkel sites (see The islands), and it’s rare to go ashore. Five-acre Lobos is 2.7km east of Icacos and actually a private island, though it’s permitted to dive or snorkel off its reef. A posh hotel was built here in the early 1960s, but went bankrupt soon after and now serves as a luxury vacation home for the owners.

To the south is the larger, rockier Isla Palominos (4.8km offshore and 15min by boat). Most of the island is leased by the El Conquistador Resort and officially off-limits to everyone else, though people do come here to snorkel off the northern shore and dine in the restaurant. Resort guests get whisked across in minutes to enjoy the lavish facilities on the 104-acre island, which include swimming, snorkelling, diving, windsurfing and horse riding. It also has a bar, a café and plenty of loungers on the smallish but pristine beach. Isla Palominitos covers just one acre, 460m off the southern tip of Isla Palominos, and surrounded by a reef perfect for snorkelling. Though it’s tiny, it also has wide, sugary-sand beaches – a real desert island.