From Remedios it’s about 8km east to the run-down but pleasant port of CAIBARIÉN, where you’ll find the closest casas particulares to the cays – the town is a convenient base from which to explore the cays without having to pay for a package holiday or shell out for an all-inclusive. Caibarién’s streets are lined by rows of wooden sugar warehouses, painted in a faded rainbow of colours, which testify to this sleepy backwater’s nineteenth-century heyday. Largely unaffected by tourism and enjoying a leisurely speed of life, Caibarién provides a marked contrast to the development on the cays. The town in itself is unlikely to hold you for long. There’s a small beach next to the only hotel where non-Cubans can stay, a quiet central square, Parque de la Libertad, and a seafront promenade, the malecón.
West of town, on the road to Remedios, the Museo de la Agroindustria Azucarera is worth a half-hour stop-off.

Read More