Explore The cayes and atolls
Caye Caulker, 35km northeast of Belize City, is relaxed, easy-going and more than merits its “Go Slow” motto. The reef, 1.5km offshore, is a marine reserve, offering unbelievable opportunities for any imaginable watersport. Even so, in general, the island is affordable, with an abundance of inexpensive accommodation and tour operators, though the number of expensive places is also increasing. The island is now a firm favourite on the backpacker trail, although up until about fifteen years ago, tourism existed almost as a sideline to the island’s main source of income, lobster fishing. The money might be coming from tourists these days but there are still plenty of the spiny creatures around, most notably at the annual Lobster Fest, normally held in the third weekend of June to celebrate the opening of the season.
The caye is a little over 8km long. A settlement lies at its southern end, which curves west like a hook; the northern tip forms the Caye Caulker Forest Reserve, designated to protect the caye litoral forest, one of the rarest habitats in Belize. At the northern end of the village lies “the Split”, a narrow (but widening) channel cut by Hurricane Hattie in 1961; it’s a popular place to relax and swim. Although there’s a reasonable beach along the front of the caye (created by pumping sand from the back of the island), the sea nearby is full of seagrass, so head to the Split or hop off the end of a dock if you want to go for a dip.
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Snorkelling
Snorkelling
Snorkelling the reef is an experience not to be missed; its coral canyons are home to an astonishing range of fish, along with eagle rays and perhaps even the odd shark (almost certainly harmless nurse sharks). Because of the reef’s fragility, visits to the marine reserves and the reef itself must be accompanied by a licensed guide. Trips are easily arranged at the island’s snorkel and dive shops – expect to pay US$30–40 per person for a half-day and US$45–65 for a full day. Most day-trips stop at the reef as well as Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark-Ray Alley. It’s possible to rent sea kayaks from several places on Front Street for independent snorkelling closer to the island, where some coral is visible; most shops offer kayaks for Bz$30 per hour, and snorkel gear for Bz$20.
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Diving
Diving
Diving here is excellent, and instruction and trips are usually cheaper than in San Pedro: open-water certification starts at US$300, two-tank dives at US$60, trips to the Blue Hole at US$200 and trips to the Turneffe Islands at US$150. Most places in town offer enthusiastic, knowledgeable local guides, regular fast boat trips and a wide range of diving courses.
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Sailing and other activities
Sailing and other activities
A more romantic way to enjoy the sea and the reef is to spend the day on a sailboat, which costs around US$45–55 per person, and usually includes several snorkelling stops and lunch, arriving back as the sun goes down. Raggamuffin Tours offers sunset cruises for US$25 with rum cocktails and ceviche included. A number of establishments along Front Street rent kayaks: Tsunami Adventures charge only US$5 per hour. Many tour operators, including Anwar Snorkel Tours, organize trips inland to Altun Ha (from US$80) and Lamanai (from US$90).
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Tour operators
Tour operators
For snorkelling, recommended operators include: Anwar Snorkel Tours, north of the front dock (t 226-0327, w www.anwartours.page.tl); Carlos Tours, near the Sandbox (t 226-0058, e [email protected]); Raggamuffin Tours, near the north end of Front St (t 226-0348, w www.raggamuffintours.com); and Tsunami Adventures, near the Split (t 226-0462, w www.tsunamiadventures.com). For diving, try: Frenchie’s, towards the northern end of the village (t 226-0234, w www.frenchiesdivingbelize.com); or Belize Diving Services, on Back St (t 226-0143, w www.belizedivingservices.net).
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Accommodation
Accommodation
Some of Caye Caulker’s hotels have been renovated to provide more upscale accommodation, but the island still has an abundance of simple, inexpensive, shared-bath rooms. Book in advance, especially at Christmas and New Year’s. Even the furthest hotels are no more than ten minutes’ walk from the front dock.
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Eating and drinking
Eating and drinking
Restaurant prices in Caye Caulker are quite high compared to the rest of the country, and it can be difficult to find a meal for less than Bz$15. Still, lobster (in season) and seafood are delicious and generally good value. You can self-cater from several shops and supermarkets on the island, and children sell home-made banana bread, coconut cakes and other goodies. Note that the tap water is unfit to drink; rainwater and bottled water are widely available. Many bars offer a happy hour from 3–7pm, with local spirits being the least expensive option.
