Explore Western Australia
Originally built to transport beef out of the central Kimberley cattle stations to Wyndham and Derby, the “Gibb” cuts through the region’s heart, offering a vivid slice of this vast and rugged expanse. It’s 670km from its western end just south of Derby to its eastern end between Kununurra and Wyndham, 230km shorter than the Great Northern Highway. Although some people have mistaken it as such, the Gibb is no short cut, with corrugations and punctures guaranteed.
As a scenic drive in itself the Gibb is very satisfying, but it’s the wayside attractions that make this route what it is – the homesteads, gorges and pools here are almost uniformly spectacular, and offer a real glimpse of Outback Australia. A comprehensive Travellers Guide to the Inland Kimberley and Mitchell Plateau is available at local visitor centres and is worth picking up.
If you’re traversing the GRR west to east and want to spare your car the full ordeal, turn back at Manning Gorge and head down to the highway via Windjana Gorge – the best and most accessible gorges are along the western half of the GRR. If you just want a taste of the Gibb, it’s possible to visit Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek national parks in a day from Derby or Fitzroy Crossing; this snippet is just about doable in a solid 2WD in the Dry. Otherwise, a sturdy 4WD that you know how to maintain is a must – at the very least carry two spare tyres.
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Devonian Reef national parks
Devonian Reef national parks
During the Devonian era, 350 million years ago, a large barrier reef grew around the then-submerged Kimberley plateau. The limestone remnants of this reef are today exposed in the national parks of Geikie Gorge, Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge, known collectively as the Devonian Reef national parks.
A turn-off south 124km from Derby leads to the most impressive remainders of the reef, the towering ramparts of Windjana Gorge. A walking trail leads into the spectacular gorge, where freshwater crocodiles sun themselves in the afternoon at a small permanent pool, and fruit-bat-filled paperbark and Leichhardt trees line the riverbanks. Look out also for the striped archer fish, which kills insects by spitting jets of water at them. Three kilometres east of the gorge are the ruins of Lillimooloora Police Station, where a Constable Richardson died after an altercation with his Aboriginal tracker Jandamarra or “Pigeon”.
It’s a further 37km to fun Tunnel Creek National Park , where the creek has burrowed its way under the range, creating a 750m tunnel hung with ghost-faced and fruit bats. Although the collapsed roof illuminates the cavern halfway, the wade through the progressively deeper and colder water to the other end still takes some nerve, especially with the golden eyes of freshwater crocs following your progress from the side of the pool – they shouldn’t bother you, though. You’ll need a torch and sturdy shoes that you don’t mind getting soaked. Moving into the Wet, check weather conditions at Fitzroy Crossing, as the tunnel can fill quickly if the Fitzroy River receives a lot of water.
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The western Gibb River Road
The western Gibb River Road
Back on the GRR, you continue to wind your way through the impressive King Leopold and Napier ranges in the King Leopold Ranges Conservation Park, passing, at 133km, a famous rock bearing more than a little resemblance to Queen Victoria.
At 196km is the access road for Lennard River Gorge (8km), a dramatic cleft carved through tiers of tilted rock, just south of the GRR in the middle of the King Leopold Ranges. You may find it quicker to walk the last 2km, which are very rough in parts. At 219km is the access track north to popular Bell Gorge. This is the loveliest gorge along the GRR, with a pretty swimming hole.
Continuing on, 253km from Derby, a long 82km detour south over some creeks brings you to enjoyable Mornington Wilderness Camp (www.australianwildlife.org), a former station that has been bought out by a conservation organization aiming to preserve native fauna. From here, you can access the impressive Sir John Gorge, which has broad pools ideal for swimming; exploring upstream leads you to even greater grandeur.
Continuing down the GRR you reach Adcock Gorge and a further 19km brings you to Galvans Gorge, both scenic without being spectacular. Camping is permitted behind the roadhouse by Manning River, where a 5km trail leads to Manning Gorge, with a large swimming hole and a pretty waterfall. Another 29km down the GRR is Barnett River Gorge, with swimming in a billabong.
