The Broome—Cape Leveque road leads north to the Aboriginal lands of the Dampier Peninsula. This beautiful region, with its pristine, deserted beaches, dusty red cliffs and mind-altering sunsets, is slowly opening up to low-key tourism, with indigenous cultural experiences now tending to be as much a highlight as the stunning scenery for many visitors.
The first stop on the road is the Aboriginal community of Beagle Bay, 125km from Broome. The highlight here is the Sacred Heart Church built by German missionaries in 1917, a beautiful building with an unusual altar decorated with mother-of-pearl. After Beagle Bay the track to Cape Leveque gets narrower and sandier and after a further 20km you’ll reach the turn-off leading after 33km to Middle Lagoon, a lovely white-sand cove with good swimming and snorkelling.
A stay at Kooljaman Resort at spectacular Cape Leveque (www.kooljaman.com.au), 220km from Broome at the very tip of the peninsula, is the reason why you’ve put your vehicle through such heartache. This is the original Dampier Peninsula resort, with accommodation ranging from camping and beach shelters to luxury stilted tents overlooking the ocean.