The most awe-inspiring formations on the coast are the Twelve Apostles – gigantic limestone pillars, some rising 65m out of the ocean, which retreat in rows as stark reminders of the power of the sea (the cliff faces erode at a rate of about 2cm a year). The (unstaffed) Twelve Apostles Centre at the car park on the northern side of the road provides clean toilet facilities and welcome shelter from the winds blowing off the Southern Ocean. It features wall-length panels of sailcloth with scripted poems about the Shipwreck Coast’s awesome, dangerous beauty. Covered walkways lead through a tunnel under the road to the lookout points and a short walk along the clifftop. Sunset here is a popular time for photographers and, unfortunately, crowds. Wait ten minutes or so after dusk, however, when the tourists have jumped back on their coaches and left, and you’ll be treated to another fantastic spectacle, as hordes of fairy penguins waddle onto the shore in droves.