Nullarbor, from the Latin “Nullus Arbor” or “treeless”, is an apt description of the plain, which stretches flat and infertile for over 1200km across the Great Australian Bight. Taking the train brings you closer to the dead heart than the road does, which allows some breaks in the monotony of the journey to scan the sea for southern right whales, or playing a few holes of golf on the Nullarbor Links – an eighteen-hole, par-72 golf course between Ceduna and Kalgoorlie in Western Australia. At 1365km, it’s the world’s longest and arguably the most unusual golf course.
From Ceduna to the Western Australian border it’s 480km, which you can easily cover in under five hours; the Dalíesque fridges standing along the highway in the early stages of the drive are actually makeshift mailboxes for remote properties. Eucla and the rest of the Nullarbor lie over the border in Western Australia on a noticeably worse road and in a considerably earlier time zone. You need to discard any fruit and vegetables and honey before you reach the quarantine checkpoint at the border.