Explore Southern Thailand: the Gulf coast
About 140km south of Chumphon, CHAIYA is thought to have been the capital of southern Thailand under the Srivijayan civilization, which fanned out from Sumatra between the eighth and thirteenth centuries. Today there’s little to mark the passing of Srivijaya, but this small, sleepy town has gained new fame as the site of Wat Suan Mokkh, a progressively minded temple whose meditation retreats account for the bulk of Chaiya’s foreign visitors (most Thais only stop to buy the famous local salted eggs). Unless you’re interested in one of the retreats, the town is best visited on a day-trip, either as a break in the journey south, or as an excursion from Surat Thani.
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Meditation retreats at Suan Mokkh
Meditation retreats at Suan Mokkh
Meditation retreats are led by Western and Thai teachers over the first ten days of every month at the International Dharma Heritage, a purpose-built compound 1km from the main temple at Wat Suan Mokkh. Large numbers of foreign travellers, both novices and experienced meditators, turn up for the retreats, which are intended as a challenging exercise in mental development – it’s not an opportunity to relax and live at low cost for a few days. Conditions imitate the rigorous lifestyle of a bhikkhu (monk) as far as possible, each day beginning before dawn with meditation according to the Anapanasati method, which aims to achieve mindfulness by focusing on the breathing process. Although talks are given on Dharma (the doctrines of the Buddha – as interpreted by Buddhadasa Bhikkhu) and meditation technique, most of each day is spent practising Anapanasati in solitude. To aid concentration, participants maintain a rule of silence, broken only by daily chanting sessions, although supervisors are sometimes available for individual interviews if there are any questions or problems. Men and women are segregated into separate dormitory blocks and, like monks, are expected to help out with chores.
