Explore The north
The remote, mountainous countryside around Nan runs a close scenic second to the precipitous landscape of Mae Hong Son province, but its remoteness means that Nan has even worse transport and is even more poorly mapped. This does, of course, make it an exciting region to explore, where you may encounter the province’s ethnic minorities: the Thai Lue; the Htin, an upland Mon-Khmer people, most of whom have migrated since the Communist takeover of Laos in 1975; the Khamu, skilled metalworkers who have moved to Nan over the last 150 years from southwest China and Laos; and the little-known Mrabri – a good place to organize excursions is Fhu Travel. More straightforward targets include the temple at Nong Bua, with it superb murals, and beautiful Doi Phukha National Park.
Read More-
Spirits of the Yellow Leaves
Spirits of the Yellow Leaves
Inhabiting the remote hill country west of Nan, the population of about three hundred Mrabri represent the last remnants of nomadic hunter-gatherers in Thailand, though their way of life is rapidly passing. Believing that spirits would be angered if the tribe settled in one place, grew crops or kept animals, the Mrabri traditionally built only temporary shelters of branches and wild banana leaves, moving on to another spot in the jungle as soon as the leaves turned yellow; thus they earned their poetic Thai name, Phi Tong Luang – “Spirits of the Yellow Leaves”. They eked out a hard livelihood from the forest, hunting with spears, trapping birds and small mammals, digging roots and collecting nuts, seeds and honey.
In recent decades, however, deforestation by logging and slash-and-burn farming has eaten into the tribe’s territory, and the Mrabri were forced to sell their labour to Hmong and Mien farmers, often under slave-like conditions. But in the last few years, salvation for many Mrabri has come in the form of weaving hammocks: foreign visitors noticed their skill at making string bags out of jungle vines and helped them to set up a small-scale hammock industry. The hammocks are now exported to countries around the world, and the Mrabri weavers have the benefits of education, free healthcare and an unemployment fund.
-
Tours around Nan
Tours around Nan
Nan is a pleasant spot to spend a day or two, but if you fancy doing something a bit more energetic, it’s worth heading out to the countryside. With or without your own vehicle, your best option is to head for the reliable Fhu Travel at 453/4 Thanon Sumondhevaraj. As well as dispensing advice about the region, Fhu and Ung, his wife, organize popular and enjoyable guided tours and trekking trips. One-day tours to Wat Nong Bua, including a visit to the local weavers, cost B3200 for two people or B900 per person for five people, including lunch. Two- to three-day treks head west, through tough terrain of thick jungle and high mountains, visiting Mrabri, Htin, Hmong and Mien villages. As well as offering cycling tours around town, one- to three-day whitewater-rafting excursions on the Wa River near Mae Charim to the east of town, and kayaking, whether overnight or just paddling for half a day on the Nan River near town, Fhu can also arrange trips to Luang Prabang in Laos, via the border crossing at Huai Kon in the extreme north of Nan province, which is open to foreigners.
