Explore Central Taiwan
Stretching from the foothills of western Taiwan to the Yushan National Park, the extraordinarily diverse ALISHAN NATIONAL SCENIC AREA (阿里山國家風景區; ālǐshān guójiā fēngjǐngqū) covers some 420 square kilometres of picturesque tea plantations, tranquil homestays and inviting Tsou aboriginal villages. The whole area took a real beating from Typhoon Morakot in 2009. The Tsou villages of Laiji and Shanmei were particularly hard hit, with the Danayigu River Ecological Park effectively destroyed. The spectacular Alishan Forest Railway is expected to reopen at the end of 2013.
Confusingly, there is no single mountain called Alishan; the actual peak that attracts the most sunrise viewers is named Zhushan, the centrepiece of the Alishan Forest Recreation Area, the region’s main tourist hub and what most Taiwanese refer to as just “Alishan”. Ruili and Fenqihu are traditionally stops on the railway line, but also accessible by road, while the other main attractions are close to Highway 18.
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Alishan Forest Recreation Area
Alishan Forest Recreation Area
The ALISHAN FOREST RECREATION AREA (阿里山森林遊樂區; ālǐshān sēnlín yóulèqū), at the terminus for both the Alishan Forest Railway and buses from Chiayi, is the National Scenic Area’s premier attraction. Its pristine alpine forests are dotted with mostly easy walking paths and several scenic overlooks offering superb views of the surrounding mountains and the surreal “sea of clouds” sunrise. However, what attracts the most tourists to the Recreation Area are its cherry trees, which come into full bloom from mid-March to mid-April. During this period, the area is inundated with ten thousand visitors a day, completely choking walking trails and making accommodation scarce. If you visit during this season, it’s advisable to come during the week, though hotel and food prices skyrocket for the entire period. The area is especially cherished by busloads of mainland Chinese tourists – the Taiwanese folk song ālǐshān de gūniáng (Alishan Girl) dates back to 1949 and remains wildly popular amongst middle-aged Chinese (you’ll probably hear them singing it).
Bear in mind that given the area’s 2200m altitude, it can get cold here even in the height of summer, and afternoons tend to be quite chilly once the usual midday mists roll in.
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Alishan’s red cypress trees
Alishan’s red cypress trees
While the area’s cherry blossoms are indeed a moving sight, most of these trees ironically inhabit a still-visible cemetery of once-mighty red cypresses, logged by the occupying Japanese in the early twentieth century to be turned into thousands of smoothly lacquered tea tables. In place of these ancient giants, many of which were well over 2000 years old when they were felled, the Japanese planted an assortment of their cherished sakura cherry trees. Sadly, apart from taking perfunctory photos before a handful of celebrated cypress stumps, most Taiwanese tourists pay scant attention to them, instead rushing to admire the cherry blossoms in an unwitting salute to the Japanese colonial legacy.
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Tsou language
Tsou language
Learn a few Tsou words before you visit Alishan and you’ll definitely raise a few smiles, though most Tsou today speak Chinese as their first language. The most commonly used word is aveoveoyu (sounds like “aview-view-you”), literally “my heart is happy” and used both as a general greeting and also for “thank you”. Similarly, yokioasu (“yoki-a-soo”) means “good health” or “good luck” and is often used when saying goodbye. Other words you might be able to use are mafe (“ma-fey”; delicious) and emi (“emee”; millet wine).
