The island-hopping, kayaking, diving and trekking in the Calamian Islands, to the north of mainland Palawan, in many ways trumps the parent island, especially when it comes to its world-famous wreck diving. From the main settlement of Coron Town on the largest island, Busuanga, you can explore the awe-inspiring islands and reefs of Coron Bay, beginning with the lagoons and coves hidden among the staggering limestone cliffs of Coron Island. Here you can climb up to volcanic Kayangan Lake, not only a bewitching place to swim but also one of the Philippines’ most unusual dive sites. Further south is Culion Island, the intriguing former home of a leper colony, while off the northern tip of Busuanga, Calauit is the home of a bizarre African wildlife sanctuary. The waters around the Calamians are also feeding grounds for the endangered dugong – the best tours are arranged by Club Paradise.
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Busuanga Island and Coron Town
Busuanga Island and Coron Town
Busuanga is the largest island in the group, but is mostly wild and undeveloped, with little to see beyond the lively fishing community of CORON TOWN on the south coast, the main base for exploring the shipwrecks in adjacent Coron Bay.
Non-divers will find the pristine snorkelling, swimming and hiking trails nearby just as enticing, and the phenomenal views across the bay from the town to Coron Island never get old; these are best appreciated from the top of Mount Tapyas, a steep 30 to 45-minute hike along the trail at the end of San Agustin Street.
With narrow streets shaded by trees, a thriving waterside market and a ramshackle wharf, Coron Town itself retains an old-fashioned provincial charm – for now. The town is a major resort-in-the-making, with frequent flights from Manila helping to ramp up development, ambitious reclamation projects, ever growing numbers of tricycles in the streets and even posh condos in the works.
- Coron Bay islands
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Diving in the Calamian group
Diving in the Calamian group
It’s the World War II Japanese shipwrecks in the Coron area that most divers come for. There are 24 wrecks in all, boats sunk in one massive attack by US aircraft on September 24, 1944.
Irako
The best of the wrecks and still almost intact; it’s home to turtles and enormous groupers, who hang in mid-water and eyeball you as you float past. A swim through the engine room reveals a network of pipes and valves inhabited by moray eels and lionfish, which look like liquid flame and have spines that deliver a hefty dose of poison.
Akitsushima
A big ship lying on her side with a crane once used for hoisting a seaplane. Between Culion and Busuanga islands, near Manglet Island, the wreck attracts huge schools of giant batfish and barracuda.
Kogyo Maru
Japanese freighter lying on her starboard side in 34m of water. In the large cargo holds you can see loaded construction materials, a cement mixer and a small bulldozer, while there are anti-aircraft weapons on deck.
Morazan Maru
Japanese freighter sitting upright at 28m. Large shoals of banana fish, giant batfish and pufferfish the size of footballs can be seen, especially around the mast, bow and stern. It’s easy to get into the cargo holds, making this a good wreck dive for beginners.
Taiei Maru
Japanese tanker covered with beautiful corals and a large variety of marine life. The deck is relatively shallow at between 10m and 16m deep, and is well suited to wreck-dive beginners.
Dive operators
There are a dozen or so dive operators in Coron Town: Dive Right (w www.diveright-coron.com) is near L&M Pe Lodge; Discovery Divers (w www.ddivers.com) is a short walk out of town towards the airport; and Sea Dive Resort has a well-equipped dive operation and is popular with beginners and advanced divers.
