Equipment

Chinese- and Indian-made bikes are available from streetside vendors for Rs100–200 per day. Superficially, they look the part – some even have suspension – but they’re heavy and often uncomfortable, components are flimsy, maintenance may be poor, and they rarely come with a helmet. If you find such a bike in a fairly new condition, you could get away with a day-trip or overnight loop but they’re not really fit for rough roads. Don’t ride this kind of bike further than you’re prepared to walk back with it.

For hard or long-distance riding you’ll need a real mountain bike, which can be rented from specialist bike shops/tour operators in Kathmandu and Pokhara (but nowhere else). A helmet and basic tool kit should come with the bike. Chinese-made bikes with V-brakes go for around Rs500 a day, but if you’re doing anything more than pootling about it’s worth paying for a Western bike. Prices range from around Rs1000 for an older hard-tail bike to around Rs2000 for a newer one with dual suspension. You’ll be expected to leave a passport or something of value as security. You’ll generally have to pay for damage or above-normal wear and tear. Be sure to reserve these bikes as far ahead as possible, especially during busy times; choice is definitely limited in the peak season.

Whichever kind of bike you rent, it’s your responsibility to check it over before setting off. Check brakes and pads, test spoke tension (they should all be taut), ensure that tyres have sufficient tread and are properly inflated (check inflation while sitting on the bike), test the chain for tautness, and work the bike through its gears to see that the derailleurs function smoothly. Check that there’s a bell – you’ll be using it a lot.

You may be able to buy a decent used bike from a departing traveller, especially towards the end of the autumn or spring seasons – check mountain-bike shop notice boards in Kathmandu or Pokhara or their websites. Alternatively, you could buy new and sell on yourself: good-quality bikes from manufacturers such as Trek or Commencal can be bought in Kathmandu and Pokhara, at prices similar to home.

Don’t bring a bike unless you have the time, energy and commitment to use it a lot. Airlines (both international and domestic) now generally impose a 25kg weight limit, with extortionate rates for extra kilos, so check the costs and allowances when you book your ticket – and pack light. The specialist mountain-bike shops in Kathmandu and Pokhara offer reassambly and full servicing. When you return home, make sure to clean off mud or soil to avoid problems at customs; a good local operator can wash, service and pack your bike post-tour. Soft bike bags are worth considering; you’ll be expected to deflate the tyres and swivel the handlebars parallel with the frame. Nepali (and Chinese/Tibetan, if you’re cycling that way) customs may want verbal assurance that the bike will be returning with you when you leave the country, but this shouldn’t be a problem and should not cost money. Domestic airlines’ willingness to accept bikes as baggage is always dependent upon available luggage space, so check in early.

Other than a helmet and water bottle, no special gear is necessary for day-trips, though enthusiasts may want to pack their own saddle, pedals and shoes, and if you’re cycling in and around Kathmandu you’ll definitely want a proper face mask against dust and pollution. Good (expensive) ones are sold in department stores; the cheaper ones only keep out the worst of the dust, not the dangerous particulates. Cycling clothing, shoes and gloves aren’t easily obtainable in Nepal, nor is good waterproof/windproof outerwear. Note that tight Lycra clothing is embarrassing or offensive to many Nepalis, especially when worn by women, so unless you’re sticking to the main Pokhara or Kathmandu trails, consider a pair of comfortable shorts over body-hugging bike gear.

A helmet and water bottle will come with a better rental bike. If renting a cheaper one, you could buy a helmet in a Kathmandu department store and carry your own water bottle – with something for water purification. Panniers and racks can be rented from the better bike shops, and daypacks and waist-packs are sold all over tourist areas. You can pick up bungee cords in any motorcycle accessory or repair shop.

A good lock and cable are essential, especially if bringing a fancy bike from home. Local bike shops sell cheap, less effective locks. Bring bikes inside at night. Puncture-repair places are everywhere on the roads, but travel with your own patch kit, inner tube(s), pump and basic tool kit, especially if riding off-road.