It’s hard to believe that KUALA LIPIS, 50km northwest of Jerantut, was the state capital of Pahang state from 1898 to 1955. Today, it’s a sleepy, inconsequential place, situated at the confluence of Sungai Lipis and Sungai Jelai (a tributary of the Pahang), dwarfed by steep hills and surrounded by plantations. There are a few mementoes from colonial days – many associated with the veteran administrator, Sir Hugh Clifford (the Pahang Resident 1896–1905), plus plenty of shops and places to eat, but Kuala Lipis’ biggest draw is access to the relatively unvisited rainforest trails at nearby Kenong Rimba State Park.