Kuala Koh, Taman Negara’s northern entrance 85km east of Gua Musang, offers a similar experience to Kuala Tahan, but within a much smaller area and – unless you happen to encounter a tour party – nowhere near as crowded. Wildlife isn’t obviously more abundant, though it certainly includes wild boar (whose wallows you see everywhere), tapir, mouse deer and occasionally elephant. Get here at the right time of year – park staff say February – and you might strike lucky and encounter the bizarre stinky blooms of Rafflesia. Although trails at Kuala Koh are relatively short, it’s also possible to trek right through to other park entrances at Kuala Tahan or Merapoh – these routes are seldom used and require advance preparation. There’s good-value accommodation and food at Kuala Koh, but transport here can be expensive.