North of Ueno, Nezu (根津) and Yanaka (谷中) are two of Tokyo’s most charmingly old-fashioned neighbourhoods and a world away from the usual hustle and bustle of the city. Along with neighbouring Sendagi (千駄木) they form an area referred to as Yanasen where you can experience a slower and more relaxed side of Tokyo. Strewn with small temples, craft shops, galleries and cafés, it’s a great area to wander and make your own discoveries, but highlights include the historic and tranquil shrine Nezu-jinja (根津神社), picturesque and historic Yanaka Cemetery (谷中霊園) and the old-style shopping street of Yanaka Ginza.