SHIVPURI, 112km south of Gwalior and the former summer capital of the Scindias, is worth a stop-off to see the Madhav Rao Scindia Chhatri, a white marble synthesis of Hindu and Islamic architectural styles with spires and pavilions. There are also several other lesser chhatris, and tranquil gardens, complete with Victorian lamps and ornamental balustrades. Nearby, the Madhav National Park has deer, leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles and blackbucks, as well as a Scindia-era hunting lodge and castle.