There could hardly be a greater contrast than that between the hot and dusty plains around Jammu and the cool green belt of the Kashmir Valley. Apart from the geographical divide, separated as they are by a rise in altitude of over 1000m, there are huge cultural and religious differences. While the whole area around Jammu is predominantly Hindu, the Kashmir Valley and its capital, Srinagar, are distinctly Muslim, hence the notorious sectarian problems. The initial impression of the Vale of Kashmir, whether you approach it via the Jawahar Tunnel which cuts through the mountains from Jammu in the south or via the Zoji La pass from Kargil to the west, remains one of a lush rural paradise guarded by the grandeur of the surrounding peaks, the mighty Pir Pinjal range snow-capped except in the very height of summer. Vivid green fields of corn and wheat form a patchwork quilt with fruit orchards and groves of nut trees, principally walnut and almond. These are most often lined with towering poplars and willows, hence the preponderance, on the approach to the capital, of shops selling high quality cricket bats. Heavy industry has yet to appear in the valley.
- Srinagar
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Gulmarg
Gulmarg
Some 56km west of Srinagar and at an elevation of around 2700m, GULMARG, whose name means “flower meadow”, is a pleasant escape from the city but is rather more geared towards domestic tourists and can get very crowded. It is also rather spread out, with no discernible centre. The meadow itself is a kilometre wide and over three long, allowing ample room for picnics, pony rides and even one of the world’s highest golf courses. The surrounding pine slopes can be ascended for a distant view of 8126m Nanga Parbat to the north, in Pakistan-controlled Baltistan. The more sedentary can ascend one of these slopes on a gondola for Rs300–800, depending how high up you go. In winter, the gondola comes into its primary usage as the means to get to the top of Gulmarg’s skiing slopes, which are underused but highly recommended for the quality of powdery snow. Equipment ($7–20) and ski intsructors ($38) can be hired through what purports to be the world’s smallest ski shop, Kashmir Alpine. The same operation also runs trekking expeditions during the warmer months. Another recommended operation is the British-run Mountain Tracks.
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Pahalgam
Pahalgam
Kashmir’s number one trekking base, PAHALGAM enjoys a stunning location around 100km east of Srinagar in the deep-cut Lidder Valley, whose pine-crested ridges ascend sharply from each bank of the chilly, fast-flowing river. The town, whose altitude is 2139m, is mostly located on the slightly flatter east bank and the lower surrounding slopes. Main Market, the central thoroughfare of the modern town, runs parallel to the river and contains most of the facilities, while the more pleasant old village lies 1.5km north, beyond Pushwan Park with its fancy flowerbeds and topiary. There are no specific sights to visit but eager pony men tout rides at fixed government rates (Rs200/hr) to various local beauty spots.
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Security concerns and scams in Kashmir
Security concerns and scams in Kashmir
Although the situation in Kashmir is calmer than it has been for twenty years, it is still essential to check the current situation with reputable media sources before travelling – wwww.kashmirtimes.com is a good local resource. No tourists have been directly targeted since 1995 but if trouble is flaring up, then you will have to endure a very heavy military presence and may even run the risk of getting literally caught in the crossfire or an act of terrorism. You should not necessarily be put off by government advisories, however, as these tend to be extremely cautious and Kashmir has remained on the list of no-go areas even when at its most peaceful.
Once in Jammu and the Kashmir Valley, security is taken very seriously and the vast majority of tourist sites, such as temples, mosques, museums and forts, are heavily guarded. You are usually prohibited from taking bags or electronic items inside; tokens are given when you check them but if you are not comfortable about leaving possessions like cameras or mobile phones in the cloakroom, then it is better to lock them in your hotel. Both Jammu and Srinagar airports have extra high security and passengers are often not allowed into the terminal until a certain time before departure, usually two hours but occasionally less. Sometimes no hand luggage is allowed on board, so it is best to check in advance.
The other potential pitfall to be aware of is the variety of scams perpetrated on unsuspecting tourists by unscrupulous Kashmiris, especially in Delhi’s Paharganj area or Jammu. It is best to take any advice about safety in Kashmir (or the lack of it) from people who approach you with a pinch of salt. Some make out you will be in danger without a guide and then try to sell a tour costing hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. These people should be avoided at all costs, as should agents trying to sell you rooms on houseboats. At best you will be overcharged for investing sight unseen and in the worst case you will be seriously ripped off.
