Explore Himachal Pradesh
Secluded SARAHAN, erstwhile summer capital of the Bhushar rajas, sits astride a 2000-metre ledge above the River Sutlej, near the Shimla–Kinnaur border. Set against a spectacular backdrop, the village harbours one of the northwestern Himalayas’ most exotic spectacles – the Bhimakali temple. With its two multi-tiered sanctuary towers, elegantly sloping slate-tiled roofs and gleaming golden spires, it is the most majestic early timber temple in the Sutlej Valley – an area renowned for housing holy shrines on raised wooden platforms. Although most of the structure dates from the early twentieth century, parts are thought to be more than eight hundred years old.
A pair of elaborately decorated metal doors lead into a large courtyard flanked by rest rooms and a small carved-stone Shiva shrine. After ascending to a second, smaller yard, you pass another golden door, also richly embossed with mythical scenes, beyond which the innermost enclosure holds the two sanctuary towers. The one on the right houses musical instruments, flags, paladins and ceremonial weapons, a selection of which is on show in the small “museum” in the corner of the courtyard. Non-Hindus who want to climb to the top of the other, more modern tower (no photography) to view the highly polished gold-faced deity must don a saffron cap. Bhimakali herself is enshrined on the top floor, decked with garlands of flowers.
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Blood sacrifice in Sarahan
Blood sacrifice in Sarahan
The Bhimakali deity, a local manifestation of the black-faced, bloodthirsty Hindu goddess Kali (Durga), has for centuries been associated with human sacrifice. Once every decade, until the disapproving British intervened in the 1800s, a man was killed here as an offering to the devi. Following a complex ceremony, his newly spilled blood was poured over the goddess’s tongue for her to drink, after which his body was dumped in a deep well inside the temple compound. If no victim could be found, it is said that a voice would bellow from the depths of the pit, which is now sealed up.
The tradition of blood sacrifice continues in Sarahan to this day, albeit in less extreme form. During the annual Astami festival, two days before the culmination of Dussehra, a veritable menagerie of birds and beasts are put to the knife, including a water-buffalo calf, sheep, goat, fish, chicken, crab, and even a spider. The gory spectacle draws large crowds, and is a memorable alternative to the Dussehra procession in Kullu, which takes place at around the same time in mid-October.
