The junction town of MANDI, 158km north of Shimla, straddles the River Beas, its riverside ghats dotted with stone temples where sadhus and pilgrims pray. Once a major trading post for Ladakhis heading south – mandi means market – the town still bustles with commercial activity, now centred on the attractive Indira Market and its sunken garden, in the centre of the town square. A collection of sixteenth-century Naggari-style temples sits above the town on Tarna Hill. On the summit is the main Kali temple, decorated with garish paintings of the fierce mother goddess draped in skulls and blood.