Explore Himachal Pradesh
Since it opened to foreign tourists in 1989, the famous Manali–Leh Highway has replaced the old Srinagar–Kargil route as the most popular approach to Ladakh. In summer, a stream of vehicles set off from the Kullu Valley to travel along the second-highest road in the world, which reaches a dizzying altitude of 5328m at Tanglang La. Its surface varies wildly from fairly smooth asphalt through potholes of differing depths to dirt tracks sliced by glacial streams, traversing a starkly beautiful lunar wilderness. Depending on road conditions and type of vehicle, the 485-kilometre journey can take anything from seventeen to thirty hours’ actual driving. Bus drivers invariably stop for a short and chilly night in one of the spartan tent camps along the route. These, however, are few and far between after September 15, when the highway officially closes; in practice, all this means is that the Indian government won’t airlift you out if you get trapped in snow. Yet some companies run regardless of this until the passes become blocked by snowfall in late October.
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Cycling the Manali–Leh Highway
Cycling the Manali–Leh Highway
Touring cylists revere the Manali–Leh highway as one of the most challenging road rides in the world and each summer up to three hundred intrepid two-wheelers set off to attempt the nearly 500km route. While the gradients are rarely unrideable, the two-day ascents, rough tracks over the passes and, most crucially, the altitude demand respect and some preparation.
Hauling a fully laden bike up 50km climbs to well over 5000m may sound daunting, but the exhilaration can be rewarding – especially if you‘re set up to camp rather than relying on the noisy, dirty parachute camps. You’ll need wind- and waterproof clothing, a warm fleece, sunglasses and headwear, plus a good supply of high-energy snacks like the blocks of peanut brittle found in the bazaars. A water filter increases your autonomy too as you’ll drink at least three litres a day. Check your bike has a suitably low gearing for crawling up the passes (most MTBs will), and that you have near-new brake pads for the long descents that follow, as well as a secure baggage system. As for clothing, choose quick-drying items that will wick away sweat before it brings on exposure on a chilly pass.
Most riders set off from Manali (1900m) and take eight to ten days to get to Leh (3500m). However, starting in Leh gives you a chance to acclimatize before you set off, involves less climbing but no less drama. Whichever direction you take, don’t fret too much about you or your bike packing up halfway, as you’ll always be able to hitch a lift. If riding alone is not for you, for mountain-bike tour operators in Manali.
