Old Delhi’s main thoroughfare, Chandni Chowk was once a sublime canal lined with trees and some of the most opulent bazaars in the whole of Asia. The British paved over the canal after 1857. In 2007, the courts ordered a daytime ban on cycle rickshaws along the street, and they were replaced by a fleet of green minibuses, but the ban has been challenged and may not last. In any event, the best way to take it in is on foot. Along it, look out for numbered “heritage buildings” signposted at intervals, with placards outside explaining their historical importance, especially during the 1857 uprising.