Oukaïmeden

The High Atlas has unique flora and fauna, which are accessible even to the most reluctant rambler if you base yourself at Oukaïmeden, Imlil or Ouirgane.

The spring bloom on the lower slopes comprises aromatic thyme and thorny caper, mingling with golden spreads of broom. Higher slopes are covered by more resilient species, such as the blue tussocks of hedgehog broom. The passes ring to the chorus of the painted frog and the North African race of the green toad during their spring breeding seasons, while some species of reptile, such as the Moorish gecko, have adapted to the stony walls of the area’s towns and villages. Butterflies that brave these heights include the Moroccan copper and desert orange tip, and painted ladies heading from West Africa to western England. Other inhabitants include the almost invisible praying mantis, the scampering ground squirrel and the rare elephant shrew.

Birds to be found among the sparse vegetation include Moussier’s redstart and the crimson-winged finch, which prefers the grassy slopes where it feeds in flocks; both birds are unique to North African ranges. The rocky outcrops provide shelter for both chough and alpine chough and the rivers are frequented by dippers who swim underwater in their search for food. Overhead, darting Lanner falcon or flocks of brilliantly coloured bee-eaters add to the feeling of abundance that permeates the slopes of the High Atlas. In the cultivated valleys, look out for the magpie, which, uniquely, has a sky-blue eye mark; there are also storks galore. Other High Atlas birds, as the snow melts, include shore larks, rock bunting, alpine accentor, redstarts and many species of wheatear.

Local flora is impressive, too. The wet meadows produce a fantastic spread of hooped-petticoat daffodils, romulea and other bulbs, and Oukaïmeden in May/June has acres of orchids in bloom.

Some of the Atlas’s fascinating prehistoric rock carvings, depicting animals, weapons, battle scenes, an apparent game area, and various unknown symbols, can be found just before Oukaïmeden‘s ski area site – follow the sign pointing to “Gravures Rupestres.” It’s worth contacting local expert Hassan Hachouch (t 0678 551527, e [email protected]) for a trip to the carvings. He speaks French well with limited English, but is a valuable resoure nonetheless to point out some of the lesser-known carvings; a modest tip of 50–100dh is sufficient.

A new eco-museum near the carvings displays photos of the flora and fauna of the national park and surroundings, as well as information about the carvings themselves.

A puzzling related feature of prehistoric rock sites in the Atlas and elsewhere are cupmarks – groups of small circular hollows (Peter Ustinov suggested they were egg-cups) with no apparent pattern carved into exposed rock surfaces at ground level. Unlike the usual rock art, they appear in granite (in the western Atlas) and conglomerate (at Tinerhir) as well as sandstone (in the Middle Atlas).

Most of the rock carvings are depicted in the indispensable guidebook, Gravures Rupestres du Haut Atlas (on sale in the Oukaïmeden Club Alpin Francais chalet and in some Marrakesh bookshops), though it is only available in French.