Explore Fez, Meknes and the Middle Atlas
The remote and breathtaking Aït Bouguemez is second only to Jebel Toubkal in popularity among mountain-lovers, not only for its own unique beauty but also as a base for ascending Jebel M’Goun, one of Morocco’s highest summits. Sometimes referred to as the Vallée Heureuse or Happy Valley, this flat, fertile stretch is memorably picturesque, its patchwork of cultivated barley fields spread beneath soaring peaks. Mud-brick villages cling to the lower slopes, which are barren for the best part of the year bar spring, when they are carpeted in wild flowers.
A world away from the well-trodden routes around Jebel Toubkal, the valley has until recently existed in relative isolation – the road in here was only built at the turn of the millennium. This arduous way of life has fostered a remarkable community spirit among the valley’s villages and led to the creation of a considerable number of self-help initiatives (see Helping hands in the Happy Valley).
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Helping hands in the Happy Valley
Helping hands in the Happy Valley
There are over thirty associations and cooperatives in the Aït Bouguemez, more than one for every village in the valley, and each is committed to aiding and enhancing their community, developing the right kind of tourism and maintaining the skills needed to produce traditional crafts. You can visit several of these, as well as a couple of forward-thinking schools, for an insight into valley life that is difficult to otherwise obtain, and the chance to give something directly back to the local communities.
Assocíatíon Ighrem Agouti t 0673 753163. Principally home to the Atelier de Sculpteur and their beautifully carved boxwood bowls, this very active association is also currently developing a women’s carpet cooperative. Past initiatives include free eye tests for the valley’s villagers. Daily 8am–6pm.
Atelier Feminin Tissage Imelghas t 0651 540831. Run by local teacher Fatima Ouakhoum, this workshop shed on the hillside in Imelghas is a hive of activity, with local women weaving traditional Berber rugs using natural vegetable dyes – it’s quite hard to find, so you may need to ask for directions at Dar Itrane. Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm.
Coopérative Tikniouine Timit t 0668 909308. Small artisan food shop signed down the bottom of a rutted path in Timit, selling locally produced walnut oil, apple jam, honey and cheese. Daily 8am–1pm.
École Vivante On the road between Timit and the turning to Tabant. Since 2010, this primary school has been providing much-needed formal education for the valley’s dispersed villages; you can visit (and help out) at around 11am, or ring Stefanie in advance (t 0672 267688). Donations appreciated. Closed July & Aug.
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Climbing Jebel M’Goun
Climbing Jebel M’Goun
Snowcapped Jebel M’Goun (4068m) is Morocco’s only summit above 4000m outside the Toubkal massif, and a popular target for trekkers, giving an easy but long ascent from the Tarkeddid plateau, directly south of Agouti. Most guides follow the piste southwest out of Tabant, tracing the Oued Arous via the village of Aït Sayd to the shepherd’s pastures around Azib Ikkis (2hr 30min). The path then climbs up over the Tizi n’Tarkeddit (a further 3hr 30min or so), before descending to the refuge at Tarkeddit (t 02165 1073576; 130dh), reached after another 1hr 30min. An early start the next day leads southeast to the pyramid peak of M’Goun West (3978m) before curving northeast around the ridge to Jebel M’Goun itself (8–10hr return from the refuge).
