AOULOUZ, 34km east of Ouled Berhil, is the starting point for the early bus to Marrakesh via Tizi n’Test, and has quite a lively little market, at its busiest on Wednesdays and Sundays. Aoulouz Gorge, north of town, is a prime birdwatching locale. Spring migrants include everything from booted eagle and black kite to white stork; Barbary falcon, Moussier’s and black redstart, blue rock thrush and rock bunting all winter here.

East of Aoulouz, a piste leads to Taïssa, at the southern end of the Assif n’Tifnout valley, with a rough piste to Amsouzart. It is possible to drive this in a sturdy vehicle and you can make a two-day tour, returning to Taliouine (or doing it in the opposite direction). Alternatively, you could walk it (four to five days). From Aoulouz there are minibuses to Assarag, where you’ll find rooms, and from where a few hours’ walk north will take you to Amsouzart.