One of the least-visited lakes in the Rift Valley, despite being a globally recognized Ramsar wetlands site since 2002, Lake Bogoria is a sliver of saline water – unbelievably foul-tasting – entrenched beneath towering hills, 60km north of Nakuru. With the increasing pollution of Lake Nakuru, Lake Bogoria has become the adopted feeding ground of tens (at times hundreds) of thousands of lesser flamingos, and the lakeshore is one of the few places where greater kudu antelope can easily be seen. The chief warden, William Kimosop (t0720 317760), is a local authority on birds and, with prior arrangement, may be able to accompany you into the reserve. But the lake is worth visiting as much for its physical spectacle as for the wildlife: a largely barren, baking wilderness of scrub and rocks, from which a series of furious hot springs erupts on the western shore, and the bleak walls of the Siracho range rise from the east.