Explore Sinai
Jagged mountains ranged inland accompany the road 95km northwards from Na’ama Bay, providing a magnificent backdrop for Dahab’s tawny beaches, from which its name – Arabic for “gold” – derives. For travellers, Dahab divides into two main parts: a cluster of resorts set around the lagoon, close to Dahab City, and the settlement of Asilah (or Asalah), 2.5km up the coast, where younger and independent travellers hang out in a kind of “Goa by the Red Sea” – though as Asilah gets smarter, the distinction between the two areas is blurring.
Like Sharm and Taba before, Dahab’s relaxed ambience was shattered when three bombs went off in Asilah at 7.30pm on April 24, 2006, destroying several restaurants, shops and a supermarket, killing 23 people and injuring 60. Today there is a noticeable security presence, and whether you are on public or private transport, you’ll probably be asked to show your passport at checkpoints on leaving or entering Dahab.
Dahab City and the lagoon
Don’t be discouraged by DAHAB CITY’s unappealing sprawl of municipal housing and government offices – the only time you’re likely to come here is when you arrive or depart from the bus station. To the south of Dahab City is the far more attractive lagoon area, home to numerous holiday resorts and boasting a great stretch of sandy beach, while the lagoon itself is a great place to windsurf or kiteboard (see Watersports and activities around Dahab).
Asilah
With its breathtaking views, quiet ambience and string of great beachside restaurants and hotels, the gentrified hippie colony of ASILAH is the Red Sea coast’s best backpacker hangout. Its reputation as the place for hippie travellers emerged in the 1960s, when Israeli troops started coming here for a bit of R&R. Nowadays, buildings stretch back behind scores of restaurants and hotels, while a section of the beach has been paved to create a pedestrianized corniche. There are two main areas: Mashraba, which is south of the bridge, and Masbat, which is north of the bridge.
Such is the lure of Asilah that visitors often stay longer than they’d expected, getting stuck in a daily routine of café life, or if they are more active, diving and snorkelling. Given Asilah’s reputation, it’s important to stress the hedonistic limits: women can generally sunbathe without any hassle, but going topless is illegal, and there are periodic crackdowns on drugs. Finally, stick to bottled water to avoid the risk of hepatitis from contaminated cisterns.
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Diving and snorkelling in Dahab
Diving and snorkelling in Dahab
Shore diving is the norm in Dahab. The nicest reefs are to the north of the lagoon; the reefs at Asilah are meagre, except for the area around the lighthouse, and much of the seabed is covered in rubbish. Experienced divers should look out for occasional free “trash dives”, organized to clear the rubbish, mostly plastic bags blown into the sea, which sea turtles can mistake for jellyfish and choke on.
Most divers head 8km up the coast where you can find the Eel Garden, Canyon and Blue Hole dive sites, trips to which are arranged by most dive centres. The Canyon is a dark, narrow fissure that you reach from the shore by swimming along the reef and then diving to the edge of a coral wall. It can be frightening for inexperienced divers, as it sinks to a depth of 50m, but there’s plenty to see at the top of the reef. Further north lies the notorious Blue Hole, which has claimed several lives (usually experienced divers who dive too deep for too long). This spectacular shaft in the reef plunges to 80m; the challenge involves descending 60m and swimming through a transverse passage to come up the other side. Divers who ascend too fast risk getting “bent”; inexperienced divers should not attempt this dive under any circumstances. Fortunately, the Hole can be enjoyed in safety by staying closer to the surface and working your way round to a dip in the reef known as the Bridge, which swarms with colourful fish and can even be viewed using snorkelling gear.
The main destination for day-long dive safaris is the Ras Abu Galum protected area, a 30km stretch of coast with three diving beaches, accessible by jeep or camel. Naqb Shahin is the closest to Dahab of the three, and has fantastic coral and gold fish, but the sea is very turbulent, so many divers prefer Ras Abu Galum or Ras el-Mamleh, further north. All three sites have deep virgin reefs with a rich variety of corals and fish.
Prices
While renting equipment is generally costlier than in Sharm el-Sheikh, diving courses are normally cheaper. Competition means cut-price deals, especially when business is quiet, but you should keep a sense of perspective – the rockbottom outlets are unlikely to be rigorous about your safety. The more established centres charge around €35 for an introductory shore dive; around €90–110 for a one-day dive in Ras Abu Galum; around €120–150 for a diving trip to Ras Mohamed; around €125–170 for a diving trip to the Thistlegorm; and around €200–250 for a PADI Open Water course.
Free diving and snorkelling
Expert training in free diving – which is done on a single deep breath, without the aid of scuba gear – is available from Lotta Ericson of Freedive Dahab (t 0100 545 9916, w freedivedahab.com), who offers a two-day beginner course (€170), as well as more advanced courses lasting up to four days. Most participants find they can hold their breath for up to four minutes after the longer course, enabling them to dive to 15m or deeper. As for snorkelling, for a more ambitious jaunt than just wading out from the shore, arrange an excursion to the Blue Hole (€10–15 for a half-day), which can be done through a number of operators, including Desert Divers.
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Watersports and activities around Dahab
Watersports and activities around Dahab
The wind blows for an average of around 270 days a year in Dahab, making it a haven for windsurfers and kiteboarders. Five Square/Go Dahab (t 0122 756 8358, w go-dahab.ru), based at the Panda Resort by the lagoon, run beginners windsurfing classes (€40/1hr or €145/3 days) and kiteboarding (€90/2hr), and rents out equipment (from €10/day). The Hilton, Iberotel and Le Meridien hotels also have windsurfing/kiteboarding centres.
Riding, rock-climbing and desert safaris
If you fancy riding on the beach, local boys rent out horses or camels (around £E50/hr); they tend to hang out by the restaurants in Masbat. Alternatively, Blue Beach Club offers more organized horse rides down the beach (£E100/hr), as well as lessons (£E150/hr); you can also do overnight trips into the desert and the mountains.
A more exciting option is to sign up for trips into the rugged interior, which can be organized at most hotels, travel agencies and dive centres. Trips can involve trekking, camel rides and quad biking, cost around €40–50 per day, and range in length from a single day to around two weeks. Desert Divers also offer a range of rock-climbing courses and day-trips for both beginners (from €65) and those with previous experience.
