Explore Sinai
Sinai rises and tapers as the peninsula runs towards its southern apex, red rock meeting golden sand and deep blue water along two gulf coasts. Even the Gulf of Suez, as E.M. Forster noted, looks enticing from offshore – “an exquisite corridor of tinted mountains and radiant water” – though it’s nowadays transformed after dark into a vision of Hades by the flaming plumes of oil rigs.
For most travellers, however, Suez is merely an interlude before the Gulf of Aqaba, whose amazing coral reefs and tropical fish have given rise to a number of popular resorts. The beach scene here is the best in Egypt, and trips into the interior are easy to arrange. Even from the beach, the view of the mountains of Sinai and Saudi Arabia is magnificent.
Read More- Diving and snorkelling
- Between Suez and Sharm el-Sheikh
- Sharm el-Sheikh and Na’ama Bay
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The Tiran Strait
The Tiran Strait
The headland of Ras Nasrani beyond Shark Bay marks the beginning of the Tiran Strait, where the waters of the Gulf of Suez flow into the deeper Gulf of Aqaba, swirling around the small islands and reefs of the Tiran archipelago. This was declared a protected area in 1992 and is now a popular spot for divers although there are no facilities (or admission charges); the only access is by boat from Sharm el-Maya or Shark Bay. The straits are not a destination for novice divers, however, as the sea can be extremely rough and chilling (bring high-calorie drinks and snacks to boost your energy). Sharks, manta rays, barracuda and Napoleon fish are typical of the deepwater sites around the islands of Tiran and Sanafir, though there are also shallow reefs like the Small Lagoon and Hushasha. The multitude of shipwrecks in the Gulf is due to treacherous reefs and currents, insurance fraud and Egypt’s blockade of the strait in the 1960s. The Jackson Reef has a spectacular seventy-metre drop-off and the wreck of the Lara to investigate, while the Gordon Reef boasts the hulk of the Lucila. Two notable sites at Ras Nasrani are the Light, with a forty-metre drop-off and pelagic fish; and the Point, with a dazzling array of reef fish.
- Dahab
- Nuweiba and Tarabeen
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Visiting Jordan
Visiting Jordan
A catamaran departs daily from Nuweiba’s port (t 069 352 0427) at 6am to Aqaba in Jordan (around 1hr 30min; $85 one-way, $125 return); in the opposite direction, it leaves Aqaba at 7pm/7.30pm. Tickets are available from Meenagate (t 0112 059 5506, w meenagate.com); book by phone or email at least 24 hours in advance and arrive at the port an hour before departure. Late departures are not uncommon and bad weather can cause extensive delays. One-month Jordanian visas are currently free for most nationalities arriving via Aqaba. Day-trips (around $250) to Petra can be arranged through Nature Travel; a more comprehensive two-night visit costs about $450 (£E2700).
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Crossing the Israeli border
Crossing the Israeli border
The border with Israel is open 24 hours except during Yom Kippur and Eid el-Adha. Avoid crossing after mid-morning on a Friday or any time on Saturday, however, as most public transport and businesses in Israel shut down over shabbat. The whole process can be very quick, unless you get caught behind a large group. If you’re arriving from Israel, don’t listen to any taxi drivers who say you need to take a taxi to reach Taba bus station – it’s less than five minutes’ walk.
Israel issues free three-month visas to EU, US, Australian and New Zealand citizens. However, if you plan on travelling to Syria or other Arab countries that do not recognize Israel, ask immigration on both sides of the border to leave your passport unstamped. Travellers must walk across the no-man’s land between the Egyptian and Israeli checkpoints; from the Israeli checkpoint you need to catch a shared taxi or #15 bus for the 10km trip into Eilat. If you need to change money, the exchange rate on the Egyptian side, at Bank Misr, which also has an ATM, is better than the Israeli bank where you pay your exit tax.
